Today Austin nabbed the first ascent of NBA Pro Jams, an insane one-mover in the Quiet Revelation sector of Newlin Creek. This boulder revolves around a massive deadpoint from a bad sloper under a bulge to a decent crimp on the face—all on the best stone The Crick has to offer. Catch this footage and more in the final installment of the Chronicles of Newlin, which I will release sometime in the coming weeks.
Two amazing climbs in the Wets:
Kyle Dontanville climbs Trig Rig (V7)
Austin Geiman establishes the enduro “Geometric Progression”
Austin Geiman flashes The Obelisk (V9) and sends Ghost King (V10) and Gentleman’s Project (V11).
Max Krimmer sends Fiery Furnace (V9/10) and The Black Dahlia (V10).
Here’s the first of maybe two edits I’m planning on doing for our March Joe’s Valley trip. In this one you’ll see footage of Lactation Station, Slam Dunk, Battletoads and The Afterthought.
Newlin’s short and fickle spring season is upon us. It’s been great to be back in the forest with new and old friends, climbing on some of the best stone in Colorado.
It blows my mind that The Crick still manages to give us new boulders—even after all these years. Although I can count the remaining quality projects on one hand, the remaining lines are going to be just as big and bad as the slew of lines that went up in the 2006-2008 range.
Ryan Silven has been hard at work negotiating some of these projects. His latest is called The Passion and checks in around V9. The boulder revolves around a big left arm lock-off to a slopey horn feature and a difficult rock over. In my opinion, it’s a fun new line and a great addition to the canyon.
The Roof Project was originally found and cleaned by Nick Anderson and Luke Bohanon. I saw the line for the first time in 2010 and was blown away by the feature and the unusually high quality of the granite.
Over the past five years the line has seen surprisingly little action. From what I gather, the project had been tried on and off by all the usual suspects, but significant links through the crux had never been completed.
The project climbs a massive underbelly of river-worn granite in the dead center of Elevenmile Canyon. The holds are all just bad enough that you can’t climb it head on, and the angle of the wall makes heeling or bicycling underneath just a bit too strenuous.
Working this boulder was an absolute trip. Methods that seemed promising would dead end a few moves later; before you knew it, your core would be shot and things would start to feel impossible.
After refining his method over the course of a few sessions, Austin sent the full line from the low. In my opinion, this is one of the sickest boulders I have ever seen and a great addition to the bouldering here in southern Colorado.